Green Book Costume Design: 60s Style with Modern Appeal
Examining Green Book Costume Design
Hollywood previously pursued simplicity and realism, as illustrated by Moonlight and The Shape of Water, which both won Best Picture in the preceding years. In Green Book, Hollywood veteran Heimann captures the essence of old-world New York glamour in her costuming.
Green Book follows the story of two distinctly different gentlemen who come together in an unlikely pairing. Dr. Don Shirley (played by Mahershala Ali) is a world-class African American pianist who hires Tony Lip (played by Viggo Mortensen), a working-class Italian American bouncer from the Bronx, to be his driver for his Down South tour. Heimann differentiates their social statuses with a firm brushstroke from her costumier repertoire. Shirley, the more affluent of the two, exhibits a more nuanced style than his Bronx native ally.
Although the film captures a distinctly ’60s style palette, it reveals how we've readapted and transformed these styles to suit 21st-century tastes. The plaid checkers and silk bow ties we see on screen are similar to the styles we’ve seen at more recent London Fashion Weeks. The film shows that some of our favourite styles have a long and timeless heritage today.
The Tuxedo
Tuxedos in Green Book make recurring appearances, and they're tailored with the signature brushstroke of 20th-century detail. Black tuxedos are paired with tonal bow ties to remind us that classics earn their names for a reason.
The classic black tuxedo is elegantly paired with bow ties, diamond bow ties, and a necktie for an edgier rendition. These outfits show us that formal sophistication has no expiration date, and tonal colours always deliver elegance. Consider adding cuff links and a pocket square for even more nuance.
Checkers
Green Book elegantly takes on the tonal hues of the season by seamlessly transitioning from autumn mustards to winter blacks. In one of the film's most famous scenes, Shirley sports a ’60s signature checker jacket paired with a turtleneck. This overtly retro style isn't dissimilar to the street style trends we've seen coming out of London Fashion Week in recent years.
London Fashion Week ’19 street style. (Images courtesy of Esquire).
The Turtleneck
Black minimalist turtlenecks make a sharp statement in Green Book's styling repertoire. Fitted turtlenecks worn by Shirley signify his sophistication and refinement. Even on the road, he always makes a point to look smart. Similarly, turtlenecks are a street style staple for minimalist fashion in the modern era. A black turtleneck paired with a long coat is modern minimalism at its quintessential best.
This street-style look is taken straight from the London 2019 Fashion Week. (Image courtesy of Vogue).
Costume designer Heimann notably collaborated with Ali to create Shirley's wardrobe style. She took inspiration from the actor’s tastes and reconfigured them in a 1960s format for the film, which is why the costuming is so transferrable between the 1960s and today.
But what garments in Green Book do we no longer see these days? Lip's retro striped shirt stays rooted in the film's era. The opulent robe that Shirley wears in his first scene is something you'll be hard-pressed to see gracing modern catwalks.
Green Book is undoubtedly a socially charged film that stirs up many conversations about racial awareness. People still talk about the unique dynamic between history and entertainment. But we think everyone can agree that Betsy Heimann's passionate styling choices breathe life into the film's mid-20th-century New York setting, revealing the close relationship between 1960s American fashion and today. Pinstripes, checkers, and a classic tux will always be on the mark for men's high fashion.
